What's the Matter With Kansas?

I write today from Kansas--Salina, Kansas, right in the middle of the state. There's a severe thunderstorm in progress. I joked with the motel clerk that this is my first visit to Kansas, and the first thing the state brings to mind is The Wizard of Oz, so hopefully I won't get sucked into a twister and get dumped in Munchkinland.

Kansas is the 30th state I've visited. I actually know what order I've visited them in, too. It's the first new state I've added in over 12 years, when I first visited Las Vegas and added Nevada, and then Arizona, when we drove across the Hoover Dam and spent about five minutes in the state. I will clip the northeast corner of Arizona on my drive on Tuesday.

My drive began today in a soft rain in Indiana, but by the time I was in Missouri it was bright sunshine. The further I got into Kansas the darker the skies to the north got. That's where the most severe weather is--Nebraska.

Kansas is the quintessential farm state. There's not much else here, especially after clearing the eastern part of the state, where Kansas City and Topeka are. I got a pretty good view of the state house (pictured above) as the interstate winded through it. There's a Brown vs. Board of Education Historical Center there. That's a lot different than when the case was decided 60 years ago, and signs reading "Impeach Earl Warren" could be found throughout the land.

When I think of Kansas I also think of the phrase "What's the matter with Kansas?" That was the title of a book by Thomas Frank. I haven't read the book, but I read an excerpt in Harper's years ago. Basically, Frank wonders why the voters of Kansas continually vote against their own interests--namely, the draconian economics of Republicans. The simple answer is Jesus. But the worm may be turning.

Sam Brownback, who once upon a time fancied himself presidential timber, became the governor and, like Popeye eating spinach, unleashed his full strength. He slashed taxes so much that the services are horrible, and his approval rating plummeted. He is now far behind in the polls to the Democratic challenger.

Even more surprising is that the Republican senator, Pat Roberts, is facing a struggle for re-election. Kansas hasn't sent a Democrat to the senate since the 1930s. Roberts received a significant Tea Party challenge for the nomination and became infamous for the information that he really doesn't live in Kansas, he just uses a friend's address, where he has a recliner ready for use.

This is my second full day of driving, and there are certain things I'm noticing, or being reminded of. One is the tease of the mileage signs. You see a city on the sign, with several miles to go, like: Kansas City 227. That number, of course, keeps getting smaller, and eventually you're there and you're on to the next big number. Today I saw a sign that said: Denver 562. Now that's a tease. Denver is still seven hours away.

I also like the way cities just sort of emerge out of the haze. Yesterday it was Indianapolis, today Kansas City. You're driving along and there's nothing but trees or suburban sprawl and then boom! You see the skyscrapers bunched together ahead of you, looming like some science fiction landscape. And you wonder, who works in all these buildings? What is life like in these cities?

I also drove by some sports arenas. I got quite close to Lucas Oil Stadium in Indy, where the Colts play. It has a Victorian feel to it, like a building in a steampunk graphic novel. Today I drove super-close to Kauffman Stadium, where the Royals play. I identified the huge crown that sits in centerfield, and the road went by and I was able to see directly into the field. Now they are playing on Sunday night baseball, and for this Tigers' fan, I hope they lose.

Tomorrow, god willing and the creek don't rise, I'll be in Colorado for my first view of the Rocky Mountains.

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