One More Tour of the Battlefield

Those who read this blog regularly know that my family owns a bed and breakfast in Gettysburg, Pennsylvania, and I visit there often. Every time I like to see something relating to the history of the town, which of course is dominated by the Civil War battle that took place there in 1863. Though I've been on the battlefield many times, I'm constantly struck by how vast it is, and how it seems impossible to fully explore it all.

For the few days I spent there this week I took advantage of some free Ranger Programs that are offered during the summer. The way the times worked out I focused on day 2 of the battle, hearing guided tours of three spots that were critical on that day: Cemetery Hill, Devil's Den, and Little Round Top.

Cemetery Hill was where the Union Army made the bulwark of their defense after they were routed on day 1, pushed back through the town of Gettysburg by the Confederates. They made their stand on a hill so named because the civilian cemetery resides there. The Confederates surrounded them, and almost won the hill on day 2, but darkness interrupted the attack. The next day Lee would try to win the position with the disastrous Pickett's charge.

Devil's Den is a formation of large boulders in what is called "The Valley of Death," low ground below the Little Round Top, a small mountain that would end up being the left end of the Union line. To the south of the Den is a rocky creek bed that would become known as the "Slaughter Pen," where Confederates endeavored to move across the ground while under the fire from Union artillery and sharpshooters. To the west of the Den is an area called the Triangular Field, where savage fighting would take place as the Union attempted to stem the Confederate advance. They would fail in doing so.

Which meant that holding Little Round Top was imperative, since it was the end of the line, and if the Confederates could flank they may succeed in winning the battle. Amazingly, it was unoccupied early on day 2. General Dan Sickles, a colorful character (he would be the first man to be acquitted on a murder charge using the temporary insanity plea), would move his troops off the hill forward, leaving it defenseless. General Gouverner Warren (immortalized in bronze above) would emerge from some trees on the top of the hill and realize the dire situation. He sent for reinforcements right away. Intercepting a courier, General Strong Vincent would rally to the site, placing four regiments on top. One of them, the 20th Maine, under the command of Colonel Joshua Chamberlain, would use a bayonet charge to fend off an attack by Alabamians, saving the day for the Union. This would end up being celebrated in the film Gettysburg and in Ken Burns' documentary on the war.

Each of these one-hour talks was fascinating, given by knowledgeable Rangers. It isn't hard to imagine what it was like then, as you are standing on the very ground that the soldiers did. But one can never really understand what it was like, with the noise, the smoke, and the carnage that surrounded them all. Today the Devil's Den is a favorite for children, as it is like a huge playground, with secret passages and rocky promontories. That's a long way from 147 years ago, when it was part of the battle that cost more American lives than any other.

All of the programs are free. Or, as one Ranger put it, we've already paid for the tours back on April 15th. I hope the antigovernment types realize that some good can come out of government.